Moorland Ramblings

Hound Tor

This journey begins where so many Dartmoor adventures have started (including a few I have already written about): the Hound Tor car park. Perched on the eastern edge of Dartmoor, this humble spot opens the door to mystery, myth, and moorland grandeur. The short climb to Hound Tor is an immediate reward – a pair of dramatic granite outcrops that have inspired generations. Towering and wind-sculpted, these twin peaks offer panoramic views over the surrounding tors and valleys, and for many, it’s easy to see why legends like Conan Doyle’s The Hound of the Baskervilles are tied to places like this.

Hound Tor Medieval Village

Passing through the craggy gateway of the Tor, we descend into a hollow of the past – Hound Tor Medieval Village. This ghost village, long abandoned, offers a haunting glimpse into Dartmoor life centuries ago. Believed to have been deserted during the 14th century, likely due to climate change or plague, the ruins of longhouses and small plots tell stories in moss and stone. Wandering through them is like stepping between two worlds: ours, and one left behind.

From this atmospheric pocket, the path dips beneath the looming presence of Smallacombe Rocks, where Becka Brook winds its way through a forested dell. The woodland here is dense and hushed, its mossy floor dappled with filtered light. You are walking in the shadows (both literally and figuratively) as the presence of the rocks looming above never quite leaves.

Skirting along the contours of Black Hill, the trail leads to the edge of Yarner Wood. This National Nature Reserve is a gem on the moor’s edge, rich in biodiversity. Once a Victorian copper mine, it’s now a haven for pied flycatchers, wood warblers, and rare butterflies. Birch, oak, and hazel blend in a harmonious wildness, hinting at a Dartmoor rewilded by time and care.

Hisley Woods

The descent from here is steep but swift, plunging us into a valley where the Dartmoor Way picks up our journey. This long-distance path soon brings us to our first crossing of the River Bovey, over a beautiful old stone bridge and into the enchanted depths of Hisley Wood. Here, the woodland is even wilder—gnarled trees lean over the path, and the sound of the river blends with birdsong and the rustle of unseen creatures.

Lustleigh Cleave

It is here that the merciful downhill comes to an end (having decided to do this walk the day after a 20km run, the downhill was very appreciated). A steady, slow ascent begins, as we follow the bridle path up through Lustleigh Cleave.

Lustleigh Cleave is a steep, wooded valley steeped in ancient history and folklore. This rugged landscape, carved by the River Bovey, is dotted with granite tors and moss-covered boulders, hinting at its prehistoric past. Archaeological remains include Iron Age hillforts and Bronze Age settlements. Local legends speak of mysterious lights flickering through the trees and voices echoing in the mist, believed to be the whispers of woodland spirits.

Our path here twists and climbs among granite boulders and ancient oaks. The atmosphere thickens – not with mist, but with presence. The creak of old trees in the wind, the calling of ravens overhead, the distant roar of the river far below, and the sudden snap of a twig underfoot. You feel watched – not by people, but by the Cleave itself. It is old, vast, and alive. It allows you to pass, but only if you show respect. It is easy to see the inspiration behind the stories of piskies and spirits that the cleave has long inspired, typical of Dartmoor myth and folklore.

Foxworthy Bridge

Passing under Raven Tor, we reach Foxworthy Bridge, a secluded and weather-worn stone crossing near to the village of North Bovey, spanning the River Bovey, nestled within the secluded and atmospheric landscape of Lustleigh Cleave. While the bridge itself is relatively modest compared to some of Dartmoor’s grander granite structures, its charm lies in its quiet setting, surrounded by ancient woodland, mossy boulders, and the ever-present sense of Dartmoor’s deep time.

Manaton

From here, we follow a little-used road, winding toward the quiet village of Manaton. I have referenced Manaton in a few posts, but this was my first time actually looking around the village.

Tucked away at the edge of the moor, Manaton exudes a quiet, timeless charm accentuated by the cottages roofed with thatch and the ancient church that sits at its centre. Whilst the village offers out a comforting welcome, the real show is in the beauty that surrounds it, with Bowerman’s Nose, Becka Falls and the inspiring Grimspound all nearby. It is to Bowerman’s nose that we are headed.

Bowerman’s Nose & Jay’s Grave

Through Manaton, we reach Hayne’s Cross and begin the final major ascent of the day: Hayne Down. At its peak, the unmistakable silhouette of Bowerman’s Nose greets us. This strange granite stack is steeped in legend, with it being said to be a huntsman turned to stone by a coven of witches. Whether statue or sentinel, Bowerman has stood watching for centuries.

From here, the path descends the western slopes of Hayne Down and into a darker tale. At a quiet roadside sits Jay’s Grave, the final resting place of a young woman named Mary Jay. Said to be a suicide victim from the 18th century, her grave is forever adorned with fresh flowers and offerings, though no one ever sees who leaves them. The site is the source of countless ghost stories and local lore. The stories of Bowerman’s Nose and Jay Grave can be found here (Bowerman’s Nose) and here (Jay’s Grave)

From Jay’s Grave, we follow the road as it gently curves back toward Hound Tor, where our loop began.

This walk is more than just a route. As with so many Dartmoor hikes, it is a journey through time and myth, through history and woodlands, where every stone and shadow carries a story. Dartmoor does not just offer beautiful landscapes. It offers atmosphere and memory, along with a sense that, out here, you are never truly alone.

Difficulty	Distance	Navigation Required?
Hard (steep ascents)	16km	Yes
Grid Reference	Safety	Footwear
SX 740 792 (start and finish)	Road crossing Poor underfoot conditions General Dartmoor Considerations	B1